Title: Worn – A People’s History of Clothing
Author: Sofi Thanhauser
Publisher: Allen Lane, 2022 (First)
ISBN: 9780241389539
Pages: 375
Clothes not only differentiates man from other animals, it also demarcates mankind into various categories according to rank, function or utility. The language uses many words, phrases and idioms derived from clothes and how they are worn. Making clothes was an important household activity in every civilized society till a few centuries ago. In the pre-industrial world, people devoted as much labour hours to making cloth as they devoted to producing food. Now, this work disappeared from everyday life and moved into the factory. But this has its own implications. The fabric industry produces a fifth of global waste water and emits one-tenth of global carbon emissions. Plant and animal fibres, namely linen, cotton, silk and wool, formed the basis of human clothing until the advent of rayon and then petro-fabrics in the twentieth century. This book talks about the historical development of each of the five types of fibres and examines the current issues in fabric production such as outsourcing to developing countries, exploitation of labour, rampant pollution in production centres which are not acknowledged nor owned by western companies. The book also touches upon the latest fad in the US and UK to return to hand-weaving using local resources and connoisseurs. This book blends reportage with historical research. The impulse for writing this is claimed to be to answer the craving to know where things – quite ordinary things – come from. Sofi Thanhauser is a writer and artist whose work has appeared in numerous publications. She lives in the US and teaches in the writing department at Pratt Institute.
Thanhauser presents brief historical sketches of the five fibres and stresses on the tales of exploitation of labour and natural resources in the case of each. Humans began clothing themselves in hides and pelts about 170,000 years ago. Shortly after this, people learned to weave plant fibres into textiles. The advent of clothes made the rapid expansion of habitation zones possible. The first intact cloth in the archaeological record is of linen. Imperialism and slavery built the cotton trade in the modern period. Mono-cropping cotton quickly exhausted the land. Planters then moved on to virgin lands with their slaves. This need to find fertile land helped drive expansion of the newly formed United States. Indigenous occupants were brutally evicted from new territories which the Whites conquered. Cotton was also exchanged for slaves in Africa. Meanwhile it proved to be the instrument of colonial expansion in India. Mechanization raised productivity in the eighteenth century and labour costs in England dropped below India’s. Massive imports – also assisted by tariffs – broke the backbone of India’s cotton industry. Industrial Revolution was a fabric revolution. The new textile machinery allowed huge productivity increase and the capital thus generated was also employed in other sectors to increase the prosperity.
The book includes some interesting historical facts about how the British imposed their cotton fabrics on India and how the crop itself was a symbol of rank exploitation. As noted earlier, when cheap fabrics were imported from England, cotton weavers in India lost their markets and were forced to turn to cotton farming for sending out as raw material for English mills. This additional manpower pulled down wages in agriculture. Colonialism thus devastated the Indian cotton industry. Genetic diversity of cotton in India was also reduced in this period as the American cotton was widely cultivated at the expense of local varieties. Traditional Indian varieties did not require much irrigation but were unsuited to textile machinery imported from Europe which was designed for the American variety. The East India Company replaced all Indian types with American in the 1840s. Cotton is a very thirsty crop – incredibly thirsty, for that matter. To produce one kg of cotton, it needs 8500 litres of water whereas rice requires 3000 litres, maize 1350 litres and wheat just 900. The author appears to harbour all the colonial prejudices against India. Visiting a well-run cotton factory in Tamil Nadu, she hints at child labour and also at many poor women submitting to polygamy. This has no relevance to the topic under discussion. As is usual with white supremacists, she can’t help notice a power failure while she was in the factory, suggesting that long and frequent power outages are common in India. Also, she compares the Noyyal river in Coimbatore to rivers which ran through American and British cities in the 1840s and the food produced from this water is alleged to be laden with toxic chemicals. This is another clear accusation that Indian industry still lags behind their western counterparts by about two centuries.
Some chapters give an overview of how fashion developed and transformed in the face of tectonic political events and pressing societal requirements. The flourishing of fashion in Paris during the Bourbon rule is described along with its collapse after the French Revolution when luxury was shunned in the wake of regicide. At the same time in America, most people wore clothing made at home while those who could afford it dressed in clothes made by a tailor or seamstress. During the course of the nineteenth century, clothing became mass-produced. Before the Civil War, readymade outer garments were made only for sailors and slaves. The chemical pollution generated during the production of artificial fibres such as rayon and nylon are examined in this book which exhibits a distinct leftist outlook. The American Standards Association (ASA) recommended safe exposure to cadmium sulphide (which is a material involved in rayon production) at 20 ppm. The author then proudly remarks in a foot note that this limit in the USSR was 3.2 ppm, less than a fifth of the American limit (p.173). We know that the erstwhile USSR was not very famous for any environmental or safety concerns. The story of rayon and nylon synthetics is saturated with dangerous chemicals eating away at the lives of workers. She accuses the US of fostering the language of anti-communism which boosted the garment and textile industries in Asia on outsourcing contracts without any accountability to American industries.
The dwindling away of textile production in the developed economies, especially in the US, in the aftermath of globalization is a persistent theme in the book as if a very essential aspect of western societies was alienated for making profits for business tycoons. As late as 1997, over 40 per cent of all apparel purchased in the US had been produced domestically. In 2012, that figure was less than 3 per cent. The author remarks about the pollution and exploitation of labour in the countries to which the garments are outsourced for production. This book also talks about a conscious drive to return to the sustainable production of fabric, especially wool. Handcraft societies are returning to the US to serve niche markets. These efforts are claimed to produce less emission and carbon dioxide, but the author incongruously flies in a plane to reach these sites, oblivious to the conservatory effort expected on her behalf since she is so complaining about the carbon emissions engendered by others! A trace of transgender activism is also visible in the text. In a tradition-reviving society of Navajo Indians, the author finds a transgender person in control of things and speculates that the transgenders keep traditions alive. She uses the pronoun ‘they’ to denote this person.
This book is counterintuitive in every sense and is a product of the woke culture predominating among the elite society in the US. It is focussed on American issues, themes, icons and society. It rails against chemical fertilizers, pesticides, industrial scale production of food and clothing fibres, large scale transportation of commodities, outsourcing production to developing countries and instead advises the Gandhian way to spin one’s own thread and get it woven in a local cooperative. This sounds utopian and that’s the one thing which clearly stands out in the entire narrative. This is not a people’s history but a leftist and woke commentary on the unfinished business of organized labour obtaining a controlling stake in the enterprises they work in, according to Marxian economic speculations. It also exhibits feminism in a high dose.
The book is not recommended.
Rating: 2 Star