Sunday, December 21, 2014

Hampi




Title: Hampi – Discover the Splendours of Vijayanagar
Author: Subhadra Sen Gupta
Publisher: Niyogi Books, 2010 (First)
ISBN: 978-81-89738-64-8
Pages: 262

No one forgets the first sight of Hampi in Karnataka. You suddenly seem to be transported from the modern world at the wave of a magic wand to a medieval town in which kings and courtiers roam the streets. If the pedestrians decide to don the clothes worn a few centuries ago, they would blend seamlessly to the background, in which the traveler see history frozen in stone – broken stone, to be precise, as the city never recovered from the barbaric destruction let loose on it after its defeat in the Battle of Talikota in 1565. A lot of travel related information is freely available on the Web, but there is nothing to compare with the experience of huddling with a nice comfortable volume, like this one, which is hard bound and having fine pages of enough thickness that can handle rough times of travel and superb pictures by Clare Arni, who is a Bengaluru-based photographer specializing in architecture. The author, Subhadra Sen Gupta writes on various aspects of Indian history and culture through fiction and travel writing. She also writes historical fiction for children and scripts comic books. At the end of it, we are not quite sure whether this book comes in which category.

The book is divided into eight chapters, with history pouring out lavishly in the description. But none of it should be taken very seriously unless the contention is borne out by quotations in other more reliable texts. True to the author’s predilection to historical fiction, the events are portrayed in flowery detail that pictures the Vijayanagara kings in a eulogizing light, as the representatives of good battling the evil forces of other kings and sultans. When you read history with an objective mind, the first thing you would notice is the absence of crystal clear truths and falsities among the avowed professions of the rivals. History is more of a matter of logical interpretation that suits the current society, than a fit case for impartial judgment. The author’s assertions on historical events interest the casual traveler, and may even help him more to be at ease with the surroundings of Hampi’s ruins. The skewed narrative that depicts a Hindu kingdom being mercilessly harangued by evil Muslim sultanates in the neighbourhood casts a shadow of historical immaturity on the book. But of course, no one takes travel books seriously. Even though it might be so, a warning may be relevant here that informs the visitors that whatever incidents narrated in the book is the personal opinion of the author which may or may not have solid foundation on actual facts.

The chapters containing Introduction and ‘A City Time Forgot’ is very nicely written and warmly invites the attention of readers who had visited or actually plan to visit the city. Sengupta does not stop by merely describing the sights, she extols the visitor to be a part of the ambience by gently instructing him to “take off your shoes and feel the cool stone under your feet. Touch a pillar and follow the lines of carvings of a dancing Shiva and you’ll be able to imagine what that forgotten stone carver felt as he tapped the unyielding stone with his chisel. Listen to the silence as you watch the sun dip past the gigantic head of the Narasimha statue that still watches over Hampi with such ferocious pride”. Such lovely advice would definitely win the hearts of the traveler.

The book depicts each part of Hampi through separate chapters each doing justice to the matter under discussion. Thus we see sections titled Pilgrims by a sacred river, Living in Vijayanagar, and an Imperial citadel. Vitthala temple is the most exquisite of Hampi monuments and the author sets aside a full chapter on this magnificent piece of medieval Indian architecture. The book is divided into two halves, the first one priming the reader on the historical background of Hampi and the latter painting the sculptures in vivid colours. Arni has done a wonderful job in filling the volume with lots of crisp and stunning photographs that do full justice to the glorious relics that adorn the little hamlet tucked away in the middle of giant boulders which lie tumbled among the monuments. As a travel guide, the book should have contained more on-the-road instructions and cut down a little on history, which is not so accurate anyway. Being a hard cover and printed on excellent quality thick paper, the book is a bit heavy with 1.25 kilograms that might prove to be a hardship for the traveler to lug it around. A clear, contemporary map of the place is painfully lacking though what is provided is a very old one that doesn’t show modern pathways. A comprehensive index and suggestions for further reading adds value to the content.

The book is highly recommended for the traveler.

Rating: 3 Star

Saturday, December 20, 2014

Badami, Aihole, Pattadakal




Title: Badami, Aihole, Pattadakal
Author: George Michell
Publisher: Jaico Books, 2014 (First published 2011)
ISBN: 978-81-8495-600-9
Pages: 144

The state of Karnataka in India renowned internationally for the excellent architecture and sculpture of its ancient temples located at Badami, Aihole, Pattadakal, Hampi, Belur and Halebid. These are only the major attractions and there are numerous minor installations crisscrossing the breadth and width of the state. A visit to the sites offers immense opportunities to the traveler to absorb the spirit and essence of the artistic merit portrayed in stone. This requires guidance from professionals, but sadly, the local support one may manage to avail is woefully inadequate and error some to be of any practical use. Jaico guidebooks on such heritage sites come in handy in these situations and this one is the definitive guidebook on Badami, Aihole and Pattadakal in North Karnataka. The author, George Michell trained as an architect in Melbourne, Australia and then obtained a PhD in Indian Archeology. He has carried out research at numerous historical sites and monuments in India. Many books have been authored and co-authored by him in association with other experts. The superb photographs reproduced in fine quality paper were taken by Surendra Kumar, who works partly as a photographer specializing in panoramic topographic views. This book would be of great help to anyone planning to visit the places mentioned.

Michell establishes the historical background in the first chapter in a succinct way. In line with the nice, handy format of the book, the history is also condensed, but without losing any of the finer points. It is said that engravings in Badami constitute some of the earliest known inscriptions in the Deccan. While Michell says thus, we wonder why Ashoka’s inscriptions in the form of rock and pillar edicts are not in the reckoning. Badami came under the sway of Early Chalukyas in the 6th century CE. The earliest temples of this era were constructed in rock-cut pattern; sculptors chipped away the unwanted portions of a solid monolith. The next stage was construction using stones in the modern way. Architects constructed buildings from specially fashioned stone slabs as in the modern fashion. Both these styles are visible in the temple towns of Badami and Aihole. Another crucial branch in the evolutionary line of Indian temple architecture is the divergence between the South and North Indian tower styles, called the Dravida and Nagara respectively. All three sanctuaries provide examples of temples in both styles. It seems that ancient Badami was a great melting pot of cultures and the two competing, yet equally elegant styles competed for royal patronage here. In the same vein, it may be thought that the Dravida style captivated the imagination of Chalukya and Rashtrakuta rulers, as we see no representation of the Nagara tower in the later monuments. We are yet to encounter such a syncretistic ancient city in North India where a similar competition ended in the adoption of Nagara architecture.

The religious structures mentioned in the book were constructed between the 6th and 12th centuries CE. True to India’s assimilative tradition, we see shrines dedicated to Hindu, Jain and Buddhist pantheon here. In this regard, those times were model abodes of religious tolerance where the temples of these three sister religions shared the same compound and most probably, the same devotees too! Compare this to the indescribable acts of intolerance we see around us today where armed hoodlums gun down innocent school children in cold blood. However, unmistakable signs of violence displayed towards Jain and Buddhist shrines among the monuments stop us from painting a too idealistic picture. When we see acts of mutilation on all three types of temples, the assailant must be Muslim, as the area came under the reign of Adil Shahi dynasty of Bijapur in the 16th century. On the other hand, we see specific instances of vandalism on Jain and Buddhist temples and idols. The perpetrator in this case must surely be Hindu! But the author does not make any guess in this regard. He simply records his observation and moves over to the next item with the studied disregard of a diehard professional well versed in his art.

This book is an unavoidable companion to anyone planning to visit the architectural treasure house of Badami, Aihole and Pattadakal. Michell’s narration includes the serial order in which a visitor should move around the monuments, and the things they must look for. If the article of interest is located in a poorly illuminated niche, he indicates that a torch light would be required. The colour photographs accompanying the text are excellent in composure and truly do its job in bringing out the detail faithfully to the reader. The book is graced with a glossary, which is mandatory as the author has used many terms related to architecture and mythology, without pausing to explain it in mid-text. A good index and suggestions for further reading completes the list. Treat this book as a guide to the places mentioned, and it does a perfect job. It is also intended to be carried by the visitor, since the pages are of good quality paper having enough thickness to stand the travails of walking.

The book is highly recommended.

Rating: 4 Star

Wednesday, December 17, 2014

Edakkal Caves & the History of Wayanad


Title: Edakkal Caves & the History of Wayanad
Editor: O K Johnny
Publisher: Mathrubhumi Books, 2008 (First)
ISBN: 978-81-8264-642-1
Pages: 224

Both domestic and international tourists visiting the idyllic hilly district of Wayanad in Kerala make a beeline to Edakkal Caves, where a reportedly prehistoric engraving on the wall arouses interest. Though not yet completely undeciphered, some of the pictures represent scenes from hunting and tribal customs. Most people would find their interest waning within a few hours. But there might be a few people, whose curiosity would be aroused by the mysterious pictures and considerations about the equally mysterious artists who wrote the pictures on the cave wall in a distant past. This book is intended for exactly those, and the brief history of Wayanad adds icing on the cake. The author is a noted journalist, documentary maker and writes on film and cultural history. He is an editor of Mathrubhumi Publishing, this book’s publishers. Johnny has compiled in this book a few essays written around a century ago, and adds his own contribution on the inscriptions in Edakkal and Thovari caves. This chapter alone is in Malayalam and written in a scholarly and well researched way.

The chapter on Edakkal rock carvings by Fred Fawcett published in Indian Antiquary’ in 1901 brings to light the early work done by British administrators around 1890s in cataloguing and disseminating information about the carvings. Fawcett himself was the Superintendent of Police of Malabar district. Though he assigns the Neolithic age (4000 BCE – 1700 BCE) for the inscriptions we may leave it to professional archeologists for making a more intelligent guess on the time period. However, it doesn’t mean that Fawcett’s exposition is below par with that of professionals. It is very precise, but brings out all salient points, along with graphical illustrations. Not for nothing is the exam to admit aspirants to the Indian Civil Service kept so tough. Those who get past it must be capable of faithfully representing more than one field of academic knowledge with some authority. However, ordinary people may not find the description appealing. Fawcett has only reproduced the pictures, without hazarding to suggest its meaning. As such, the narrative is of interest only to the professionals.

Chapters on the history of Wayanad are simple and easy to read by, but lack any depth or insight. References are taken from government gazettes and even hearsay or local legends. It is highly doubtful whether the story of Vedar chieftains taking a Kshatriya king captive and forcing him to marry a princess of their clan, is authentic. The rebellion of Pazhassi Raja, for which Wayanad is rememberd in Kerala history, is rather neatly presented, though there is repetition of Thomas Harvey Baber’s memoirs in two chapters. Excerpts from the letter of Baber, who was the assistant collector of Malabar to his superior and under whose leadership the British intercepted the Raja and killed him, makes the reader stand in awe at the mutual respect commanded by the rebel and his pursuer. This narrative also brings to light the strict rules of caste in force at that time. We read that Pazhassi Raja, even when he was shot and was dying, asked his assailants not to come near him lest he should be ceremonially defiled! We need not judge the Raja’s action contemptuously in the light of the moral enlightenment of a future era. He was simply following the moral codes in force in the kingdom and that he was not above the intellectual horizon of the times.

The chapter by Rhodes Morgan, who was the forest officer and a commendable ornithologist titled ‘A journey through the forests of Wayanad’ offers a lovely description of his entourage’s journey from Kozhikkode to an assignment in the deep forest. Morgan paints the entire flora and fauna of the district in a humorous and absorbing way, by carefully describing the birds, animals, trees and flowering plants. The reader feels like travelling along with Morgan. This captivating narrative indirectly points to the imperativeness of deputing people having a genuine interest in the fields of wildlife and botany in the forest department.

The book, especially its latter half, is littered with a disgustingly high number of typos. It may safely be asserted that some of the pages were not even submitted to proof reading, as the meaning is obscured by indecipherable errors. We expected something better from Mathrubhumi Books, which is a leading publishing house in Kerala. The good numbers of photographs, even though monochrome, add convincing visual detail to the text.

A curious point to note is that in the excerpts from William Logan’s Malabar Manual is the point of time when the Nair community was identified and assimilated by the British into their bureaucratic cadre on account of their submissiveness and help in hunting down Pazhassi Raja. He says, “The Sudra or Nair part of the community were more to be depended upon; there was an honest frankness about them which you could not but admire, and which is a surety that in proportion to our increasing influence, these people will prove themselves worthy of the confidence of the government” (p.124).

The book is recommended.

Rating: 3 Star

Sunday, December 14, 2014

A Study of History, Vol 8




Title: A Study of History, Vol 8 – Contacts Between Civilizations in Space – Heroic Ages
Author: Arnold Joseph Toynbee
Publisher: Oxford University Press, 1985 (First published 1954)
ISBN: 978-0-19-215216-9
Pages: 732

In this eighth volume of the series on ‘A Study of History’, Toynbee analyzes the contacts between civilizations in the Space domain, that is, the contacts between those societies that are separated by a frontier in the form of a geographical barrier like the sea or desert. The contacts between contemporary societies may take the form of a military invention through the contraption of war, or in the spiritual domain in the form of religion, literature or art. Whenever there is a contact, intermingling between the opponents is bound to take place on the cultural plane. The author describes a mechanism through which the cultural assimilation is germinated on the soil of the assaulted society and the way in which it spreads its roots. The defeated society first tries to imitate the military techniques of the victor, by employing the same weapons, modes of combat and drill of the soldiery. But this token adoption comes at a cost. A society is proved to be incapable of copying only one aspect – in this case military – of an alien civilization. The paraphernalia on other related spheres gradually makes an entrance on the imitator’s bosom. Several examples are cited to illustrate the point in a convincing manner. This volume is also an excellent preface to the next one in which the contacts between civilizations in the Time domain, in the form of Renaissances, are elucidated.

The interactions in the space domain begins when a society in growth transmits its institutional ideas in the spheres of culture, politics, economics and warfare towards the barbarians who lie at the other end of a permeating border through which they willingly assimilate the rays of civilization. This border, or limit, is not static. It moves at the expense of the outsiders, as more and more of them will be incorporated into the ambit of the growing civilization. Toynbee calls this border a ‘limen’, and bestows on it the status of a benevolent feature of the growth phase of a society. But when disintegration begins to set in, the initiative is lost on the part of the parent society’s creative minority which will be usurped by a dominant minority who will move the border outward again, but this time, by the use of coercion through force of arms. This move is bound to generate opposition from the barbarians, but the dominant minority continues to a stage where the border could just be maintained inviolate through a long route of supply chain from the heart of its domain. This border, being supported militarily, has to be constantly on the guard against invasion from outside the pale. This static border is called a ‘limes’. Eventually the barbarians acquire the art and technology of military science from the society and conquer the parent society through forced annexation. Thus, the first stage between the interactions of two societies over the geographical domain is very succinctly spelt out.

About half of the volume is concerned with the intercourse between modern Western Christendom and other living specimens of the species called civilizations. The modern era was inaugurated with the voyages of Columbus in 1492 and subjugation of the New World. At that time, the West was culturally in a disadvantaged position, but as the 20th century dawned, it spread its tentacles far and wide and there was literally no society on the face of the earth that was not influenced in some way by the West. There is no comparison between this comprehensive domination by a particular civilization with anything that went before it. In that sense, setting aside a large chunk of the available space is justifiable. Toynbee identifies the turn of the 18th century as the tipping point, when the Western Civilization began to win the hearts of other peoples. This was also the chronological point when religion took the back seat for the first time. Religious schism in the 16th century between the Protestants and Catholics resulted in a series of religious wars for about 150 years since, at the end of which both the contenders arrived at a modus vivendi of the right to coexist. The failure of religion to assert itself, coupled with the resurgence in scientific pursuits helped create a secular outlook. It was only when the Western culture divested itself of the burden of an intolerant religion in the flavours of Catholicism and Protestantism that they could prompt people all over the planet to emulate their ways. The author gives a detailed ringside view of the societies of Orthodox Christendom, Ottoman Islam, Hindu and the Far Eastern Civilizations that came in contact with the West and the thorough transformation each of these societies underwent as a result of that crucial encounter.

The rendezvous between Medieval Western Christendom and the Eastern Orthodox and Islamic civilizations during the crusades helped to transfer the relic of Hellenic cultural artefacts and works of literature, which was preserved in a medium of the Syriac and then in Arabic language, to the West, where it flourished to perfection in the form of the Renaissance that enlightened it two centuries later. A catalogue of fruitful encounters in the ancient period is also listed. Toynbee further categorizes the nature of response on the part of the assailed society as a result of intrusion from the other. There are two kinds of options usually seen exercised by people, which are termed Herodian and Zealotist. Both the terms are borrowed from Jewish history and their rejoinder to their subjugation by Hellenism in its Roman incarnation through force of arms. Herod, who ruled Palestine at that time, exhibited a conciliatory mindset in which he cooperated with the aggressors without seriously undermining the basic Jewish tenets. On the other hand, the Zealots opposed the Romans tooth and nail and isolated themselves against the rays of cultural dissemination that followed the conquest. In the end, the violent ways of the Zealots undermined their, as well as the peace-loving Herodians’ overtures and caused devastation to descend on their holy land.

There are a few curious points to note in this long volume. His intellectual antipathy to Edward Gibbon has been made more than exposed in previous volumes, and it is no different in this one too. This time, he accuses Gibbon ‘to be fooled by Heroic poetry (of barbarianism) describing Romans as pigmies and Northern Barbarians as giants”. This volume also contains a scathing indictment of Zionism in establishing the Jewish home state of Israel on Arab soil, by displacing the lawful inhabitants of Palestine. He accuses Jewry of inflicting the same hard punishment which they themselves received from Nazis. This passage is a shot in the arm of Palestinian fighters opposing the installation of a Jewish state in their midst.

An insightful discussion on the change of attitude of Englishmen stationed in India in the 18th century who were at home in the country and shared its customs, to the ruling elite of the next two centuries who maintained aloofness on all grounds. The early English were indistinguishable from the Indian elite, and shared in their culture, art and debauchery. They held durbars, maintained zenanas, raised children by Indian wives and educated them in England. A romantic description of the state of affairs is presented in William Dalrymple’s ‘The White Mughals’ (reviewed earlier inthis blog). But all this changed, around the turn of the 18th century, when Wellesley began a campaign for suzerainty in the subcontinent that culminated in 1858, when the Crown took over the administration of the country from commercial entrepreneurs of the East India Company. Toynbee ascribes many reasons for this change of heart. The superiority complex of the victors in a military conflict naturally comes to mind. The reduction in traveling time between England and India through the opening up first of a land way in Egypt and then through the opening of Suez Canal in 1869 is a factor to reckon with. Improvement in speed of communication with the home country, especially after telegraph was invented prompted many men to bring their wives to their place of employment in India. The growth in the number of English women was proportional to the rising aloofness of the white civil servant. He was incorrupt and his manners irreproachable, but the man himself was unapproachable for the native subjects. The author adds one more controversial reason of his own discovery to the above list. He says that the British were made to administer the Hindu society which was riddled with a caste system and its hierarchical discrimination. In fact, the caste system is perfect for a group of people who happens to be on its topmost echelon! Probably a whiff of that inhuman system might have seeped into the foreigners’ psyche ruling the country then. This point is further strengthened by the shown example of Indonesia where the Dutch, who were also Protestant, maintained intimate relationship with the Natives right till their ouster in the 20th century. This aspect should form the subject of further study.

The book is highly recommended.

Rating: 4 Star

Wednesday, December 10, 2014

A Forgotten Empire




Title: A Forgotten Empire (Vijayanagar) – A Contribution to the History of India
Author: Robert Sewell
Publisher: Master Mind Books, 2012 (First published 1900)
ISBN: 978-81-8468-290-8
Pages: 359

Robert Sewell (1845 – 1925) was a British civil servant employed at the Madras Record Office as a Keeper entrusted with documenting ancient inscriptions and remains in the region. This book is the first ever attempt to decipher the puzzle of history hidden in the stony ruins of Hampi. Basing his research mainly on three sixteenth century historians of the region, Sewell unveils a preliminary montage of a forgotten dynasty that fired up the imagination of folklore, but hardly left any historical references of its own. The author describes the birth of the empire in 1336 and its eclipse in 1565 in which the combined military might of the Deccani sultanates comprehensively decimated them at the Battle of Talikota. The two centuries of Vijayanagara prominence was a defining point in South Indian history, though they hardly made any impact north of the Vindhyas. The entire south accepted their tutelage and consolidation of Hindu monarchs helped stem the tide of Muslim invasions to a limited extent. Sewell’s historiography might look a little odd in the light of present standards, as in its emphasis on religious differences between the winners and vanquished as the root cause of all strife. But we should not lose sight of the fact that the book was written at the height of colonial power and his natural inclination was to paint the alien rulers in a better light when the reader is indirectly to make a comparison between the times his story narrates to the then existing conditions prevailing in British India.

Mohammed bin Tughlaq’s invasion of Anegundi, which was the ancestral seat of the Sangama brothers who were ministers of the ruling monarch provided the spur for establishing the dynasty. Its early phase was marred with frequent collisions with Bahmani sultans who established their headquarters at Gulbarga. The invasions were frequent and every time we read about a debacle on the part of Vijayanagara rulers and their having to part with gold, jewels and their daughters to the sultans. The dynasty itself was also not free from internecine strife and fratricidal intrigues for obtaining the throne by deceitful means. Vijayanagara’s star turned when Krishna Devaraya ascended the throne in 1509, who ruled till 1530. His rule was legendary and completely stemmed the alien tide as long as he reigned. Personal valour, efficient military administration and liberal assistance from the Portuguese with whom the King was in cordial relations helped him vanquish the opponents. The historical sky of Vijayanagara was illuminated by the lone star of Krishna Devaraya. The empire began to crumble right from his death. His successors were either weak or harsh on the nobles which drove them to sideline the monarch with titular powers. The haughty demeanour exhibited by Krishna himself prompted the five sultanates to join forces and defeat Vijayanagara in a convincing rout in the year 1565.

The writer leans on the historical narratives of two Portuguese historians Fernao Nuniz and Domingo Paes who travelled and wrote about Vijayanagara in 1535-37 and 1520 respectively. Being chroniclers of a foreign potentate, they look at the spectacle of Indian royalty with an open mind and makes frank comparisons with what they were familiar with, in Europe and elsewhere. Vijayanagara had a monopoly on buying horses traded by Portuguese ships which transported the animals from Yemen to Goa and then overland to Hampi. It is said that the demise of the empire after 1565 was one of the direct causes of the darkening of Portuguese prominence around this period. The sudden loss of a lucrative item of trade which never regained its old scale proved to be one of the nails in the Portuguese coffin.

Nuniz’s description of the life in Vijayanagara makes interesting reading. Generally, it is believed that the upper castes among the Hindus observe a strict diet of vegetarianism. But what we learn from the traveler is quite contrary, as he asserts that “these Kings of Bisnaga eat all sorts of things, but not the flesh of oxen or cows, which they never kill in all the country of the heathen because they worship them. They eat mutton, pork, venison, partridges, hares, doves, quail and all kinds of birds; even sparrows, and rats, and cats, and lizards, all of which are sold in the markets of the city of Bisnaga (Vijayanagara)” (p.308). Would the present-day Hindu revivalists be able to ‘stomach’ these hard facts?

Other books related to Vijayanagara Empire and reviewed earlier in this blog are Vijayanagara by Burton Stein, Hampi Ruins - Described and Illustrated by A H Longhurst and Court Life Under the Vijayanagar Rulers Madhao P Patil.

The book is highly recommended.

Rating: 3 Star