Title: The Last Secrets of the
Silk Road
Author: Alexandra Tolstoy
Publisher: Profile Books, 2004 (First published 2003)
ISBN: 1-86197-379-9
Pages: 210
Alexandra Tolstoy is a relative of
the world famous author Leo Tolstoy. She had studied Russian in England and
spent a decade working, riding and traveling in Russia and Central Asia. She
specializes in riding tours around Uzbekistan and the present book is her
reminiscences of an epic journey with three of her friends. The all-girl team
took to the ancient Silk Road running from Merv in Turkmenistan to Xian in
China, over a distance of 8000 km and in eight months’ time. To relive old
times, the team traveled the entire distance on foot, horse and camel copying
the legendary travels of ancient times, like those of Marco Polo and Hsuen
Tsang. The brave and sturdy group conquered three great deserts, the Kara Kum,
Taklamakan and Gobi during their eight-month trip carried out in 1999. Though
assisted by a backup crew following in trucks and well connected by a satellite
telephone, the journey of epic proportions is indeed a truly remarkable act of
courage, dedication and determination. The trek went through four countries,
Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan and China of which the last formed the
bulk of travel owing to its sheer size.
The first leg of the journey
through picturesque idylls in Central Asia through the three former Soviet
republics was quite enjoyable for the team. Even though the journey was planned
during the months of May – June, the weather was generally cold and appealing,
even in deserts. Their guides and camp managers were cordial and cooperative,
providing the team some respite from the very hard regime of living on the
roads. The hilly terrain, interspersed with small rivers and trees present the
picture of an earthly paradise compared to what was to befall on them in China,
the largest stretch of the journey. Tolstoy notes with ardour the lonely
wildernesses of Kyrgyzstan, whose natural beauty is not tarnished after the
fallout with Soviets in 1991. Other Central Asian states like Uzbekistan
embarked on a belligerent nationalistic campaign to support their claims.
Kyrgyzs didn’t follow the line and still exhibits a benevolent face to
Russians, their old masters. Attempts to whip up nationalism in a tribal
society has not yet borne fruits. The team enjoyed the Central Asian stretch of
the voyage more than the Chinese section, partly due to the fact that they
could ride horses on this leg of the journey. Even though the physique and
stamina of Central Asian horses are legendary, we are left wondering at the
very poor quality of animals provided for the team.
The second leg of the journey in
China was very tough on both the terrain and the poor performance of the crew
in the backup team. Being a centrally planned economy, there was no aspect of
the journey in which a government-owned company didn’t take part. This caused
many hardships for the team whose basic amenities were sometimes not fulfilled
because it happened to be a holiday for the company which was entrusted with
it. The crew were discourteous at most times and pilfered the funds allocated
for travel by forcing the team members to compromise on quality. The author
notes with concern at the ease with which officials (including police) in China
could be made to bend to one’s wishes with a small bribe. Crossing the
Taklamakan desert was the toughest part of the expedition whose problems were
complicated by the indifference of the crew. Tolstoy ruefully notes that when
they reached the final destination, they were not sorry to bid farewell to the
crew and the feeling was mutual.
The book lacks any merit for
serious reading. Even though the title is greatly embellished with references
to secrets of the Silk Road, the tour was poorly conceived and haphazardly
executed to have any impact. There are absolutely no references to history of
the road and the times, which tells on the author’s caliber and her lack of
homework. The attempt to relive Marco Polo’s travel by riding on horses and
camels seemed to be preposterous as there were no efforts to anchor the
narrative firmly on the rocks of history. It felt as if the travelers went on
a futile trip to the ends of the earth for no more valid reason than a fad.
Tolstoy miserably failed to instil in the reader any sense of being part of a
great adventure. Copying details of the traveling girls’ quarrels and diaries
does not bid well for interesting reading.
The book contains a few colour plates of the journey.
However, they don’t have sufficient clarity to offer a flattering illustration
of the majesty of the countryside through which the expedition lumbered on. The
book also don’t do justice to its grandiloquent title due to lack of serious
research.
The book is not recommended.
Rating: 2 Star
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