Title:
The Indian Spirit – The Untold Story of Alcohol in
India
Author:
Magandeep Singh
Publisher:
Viking Penguin, 2017 (First)
ISBN:
9780670089055
Drinking
alcohol was part of social etiquette in most societies. References to soma and sura (substances that cause hallucinogenic effects and inebriation)
can be found in the Vedas – the most sacred component of Hindu scriptures. From
tribes inhabiting the remotest corner of the country to cosmopolitans in the
metros, liquor is a choice people have to make (at least) once in their
lifetime. However, polite Indian society has been extraordinarily hostile to
drinking. Gandhian ideals weigh heavy on the political mindscape to curtail the
production and sale of alcohol under draconian rules that serve the purpose of
profiteers and big companies more than they protect the interests of the common
man. Coming to think of it, don’t most of Gandhi’s dogmaswere unpractical, out
of sync with modern times or even outright tomfoolery, like his vow of silence
and nature cure? We’ll leave it at that, as making fun of sacred cows is not an
enduring pastime here. Over the years, popular media like cinema and literature
have portrayed drinking as a despicable habit leading to domestic violence and
financial ruin of families. Apart from real instances of irresponsible intake
of alcohol, it can’t be denied that there are many who want to have a neat and
decent sip in the weekends. Magandeep Singh’s book couldn’t have come upon a
more opportune time when India is at the cusp of impending changes in the
pattern and regulations controlling social drinking. It tells some anecdotes
from the long history of alcohol in India, the leading genres of the product
doing rounds in the country, a note on home brew and a few comments on the way
society should venture into in future. The author is a certified sommelier and
spends his time as a consultant with hotels and restaurants while in India. He
found his calling in wines while working in France and regularly conduct wine
appreciation sessions.
Large
scale bacchanalia was not unknown in ancient India, as evidence of one such
binge fest is recorded in Greek chronicles. Alexander the Great organized a competition
for drinking the maximum quantity of unmixed wine on the death of Calanus
(Kalanos), an Indian philosopher accompanying him. 40 people died of
inebriation during the festivities. This being the case, early travelers to
India record that its people didn’t take much to drinks. The author credits
this slip to some very early attempt to misinform the foreigner. The country as
a whole and its kingdoms took a lenient view on consumption of alcohol by
ordinary men, while at the same time encouraging its use among the aristocracy
and military cadres. The Aztecs of Mexico had stipulated a minimum age of 52 to
start drinking, but no such restrictions ever took root in India, which always
maintained a healthy dichotomy between caution and consumption.
Ease
of availability of drinks began with the arrival of the British who set up
distilleries close to garrison towns in addition to import from the home
country. The book includes many anecdotes on the transportation of liquor from
Britain to India through an unpredictable sea route and the unexpected outcomes
of some of the brew. India is the largest consumer of Scotch whisky in the
world, and the story of how scotch itself flourished in Britain is very
interesting. By the late-nineteenth century, a serious disease of the vineyards
in Europe ground the production of grapes to a halt. Called phylloxera plague
caused by yellow louse that came from America, it decimated the wine industry.
Now, the aristocrats were hard-pressed for a suitable alternative as supply of cognac,
their favourite drink made from wine, had dwindled. The patricians were averse
to sample Scotch whisky which was the favourite drink of the hotheaded
revolutionaries of Scotland. The liquor was produced and sold in barrels then. To
make it appealing to the rich and powerful, bottles began to be used.
Eventually it picked up momentum and carved out a niche for itself.
Distillation itself was developed in Scotland as an unanticipated result of
Henry VIII’s conversion to Protestantism. Many catholic abbeys were closed down
and many an unemployed monk found lucrative careers with their proficiency in
winemaking.
An
extensive survey of the Indian alcohol industry is included with the author’s
comments on each brand, formed with firsthand experience. He warns readers that
most of the Indian whisky is not exactly that, but rum instead. These brands
take in extra neutral alcohol (ENA) and suitably flavour it with Scotch and
other reputed makes. Most of them can’t claim the status of malt. India’s
alcohol industry gets its sustenance from the demand of the armed forces and
Singh quips that were the alcohol industry left to fend for itself with the
civilian consumer, it may have long packed up. In addition to imported genres
like whisky, wine, gin, brandy, rum and vodka, an extensive analysis of local
breeds like mahua and toddy are also included to satisfy patriotic
sensibilities. The author is concerned at the difficult straits the industry is
in and offers a three-pronged education campaign to increase awareness among
the consumers, regulating bodies and the industrialists.
Since
drinking is shunned upon in conservative families, many men usually indulge in
it while in college or in their professional career. As such, it is not
discussed in a familial setting in which elder family members are present. In
light of this, Singh assumes a conspiratorial attitude with readers when
recommending specific brands and discussing its pros and cons. Frequently, this
is suffixed by tongue in cheek expressions in the tone of you-know-what-I-mean. The review of the most popular brands in each
genre is somewhat pompous where Singh flaunts his knowledge with little space
for the readers to maneuver and form their own opinion. A chapter on the
chemistry behind fermentation and distillation could’ve added much sobriety and
seriousness to the book instead of the present perception of it as a handbook
of hooch. To be frank, I am still confused about the difference between whisky
and rum! The author shocks ordinary sensibilities at times, especially when he
recommends ‘white widow’ as the tradename with which cannabis can be procured
in Amsterdam. He suggests legalization of cannabis and loosening up of
regulations for the alcohol industry.
The
book is recommended.
Rating: 3 Star
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