Title:
100 Million Years of Food – What Our Ancestors Ate
and Why It Matters Today
Author:
Stephen Le
Publisher:
Picador, 2016 (First)
ISBN:
9781250050410
Pages:
309
While
it is undeniable that human health is in its most marvelous phase ever in its
history, it is really hard to come across a person entirely satisfied about his
state of health. Awareness and the tons of information on ailments reaching the
common man has helped to ward off diseases, but the apprehensions about newer
and stranger diseases keep the society on tenterhooks. As I write these words,
the South Indian state of Kerala is in the throes of a battle against a
previously unheard of viral disease caused by a kind of deadly pathogen known
as the Nipah virus. Sometimes, the food we eat also forms the channel through
which harmful bacteria and viruses reach our body. Even if we lay aside the
menace of microbes for the time being, it is arguable whether we keep a healthy
diet. With the changes in habitat and lifestyles, most people follow a diet
that is greatly at odds with that of their ancestors. Also, the cherished
notions about food and nutrition often turn out to be wrong when viewed in a broad
context. This book is a valiant effort to reach an understanding of what our
ancestors – not all of them humans, of course – ate in the last 100 million
years of evolutionary history. It explains what we should eat and how we should
lead our lives by combining the latest in scientific studies with a dose of
evolutionary biology and a review of how people past and present ate and lived.
It offers practical suggestions for tweaking the ancestral habits and inserting
them into our daily lives to avoid or delay the onset of major chronic
diseases. Stephen Le is currently a visiting professor of biology at the
University of Ottawa. He received Ph.D in biological anthropology in 2010 and
is an ethnic Vietnamese settled in Canada.
The
eating habits of our primate ancestors underwent dramatic changes as a result
of minor upsets in the genomic roadmap. Around 60 million years ago, our
primate forebears lost the ability to synthesize vitamin C due to a genetic
mutation in a single gene called GLO. They tided over this handicap by taking
to fruits rich in the vitamin and were abundantly available in the
surroundings. Similarly, between 40 and 16 million years ago, our ancestors
progressively lost the genes for building uricase, the enzyme helping to
dispose of uric acid from the body. As a result, uric acid levels in primates
rose 3-10 times higher than other mammals, which however helped them to store
fat, particularly after eating fruit.
The
book repeatedly handles the pros and cons of eating liberal quantities of meat
and dairy products. Meat is the greatest source of protein and in the long
history of food, our affection for fruit pales in comparison to our affinity
for meat. However, choosing an unusually large slice of meat comes with its own
problems. Humans can’t consume more than 35-40% of calories in the form of
protein due to the accumulation of toxic levels of ammonia and urea as
byproducts of digesting and metabolizing protein. Fat and carbohydrates thus
provide the bulk of calories needed by us. Stephen Le’s assertion that
vegetables are not our original food source may surprise ardent Vegs, but he
explains it why. Humans don’t have the specialized digestive systems or teeth
that herbivores like guerillas or cows possess to grind and digest large quantities
of unprocessed plant foods. The author shocks dairy enthusiasts as well with
his prescient remark that compared to milk, alcohol is child’s play. In fact,
milk is the most complex substance people consume.
Over
the eons, our diet shifted from insects to fruits, meat, agricultural products
like wheat, rice, potatoes and corn and then to milk and alcohol. Modern
societies consume all these different genera of foods, but we are still unsure
about what constitutes an optimal diet. Le asks rhetorically whether a healthy
man in a great mood and being fertile and stronger at a younger age is to be
emulated than another healthy old man delaying cancer for a couple of years and
hanging out with his great-grandchildren. The book contains many good chapters
on the tinkering required in diet for a healthy life. Calorie restriction is a
good method for longer life, but studies point out that the calorie intake of
modern people is much the same as primitive hunter gatherers. But the latter
were slim and fit while the former fights a losing battle with obesity. The
fraction of obese people as a proportion of the whole goes steadily up in every
society. Le surmises that our voluntary inactivity may be the key to our
expanding waistlines. Watching TV and indiscriminate usage of automobiles to
cover even short distances are killing us slowly. To make his point, Le visits
Ikaria in Greece and Okinawa in Japan to showcase the efficacy of long walks
which are mandated by the geography of these islands. Anyhow, the traditional diets
are fast receding into oblivion in these places too.
The
book’s moral is easily evident as it is reiterated many times in the text. To
lead a healthy and longer life, we need to practice exercises of moderate
physical activity, adhere to traditional cuisines, and eat more animal foods
when older. Going after traditional diets forces the author to hunt for
restaurants that serve such bizarre fare as insects and crickets in Southeast
Asia.
What
is disappointing in the book is its painfully evident bias towards unscientific
fads of modern society such as organic farming and mindless opposition to genetically
modified (GM) foods. Of course, this is not the place for a full discussion of
the pros and cons of organic farming and avoidance of chemical pesticides, but
it is fairly obvious that the organic movement is not going to be good for the
food security of the world in the longer term. Having lower crop yields,
organic farming is a wasteful exercise that squanders precious resources such
as land, seeds, water, manure and manpower. This is especially significant when
the supposed ill-effects of scientific agriculture using chemical fertilizers
and judicious use of pesticides are nowhere to be found. Le advocates ban on
the use of genetically modified foods till more tests on its long-term safety
are conducted. This is a self-defeating argument. How can you test them if you
ban it outright and continue to arraign it in the media and every available
forum? Europe keeps them at arm’s length while America continues to enjoy its
varied flavours. So, a definitive answer to this puzzle might not be long in
coming after all, when we learn that 93 per cent of soy, 90 per cent of corn,
95 per cent of sugar beet, 93 per cent of rape seed and 30 per cent of alfalfa
crops in US and Canada are already GM. In order not to scare away customers,
the manufacturers prefer not to indicate this fact on the product package. The
book’s unsubstantiated attack on MSG (monosodium glutamate) is unscientific as
the perceived after effects of consuming it is both fanciful and unproven. Le
claims that German researchers have found that MSG can cause headaches (!) when
ingested in large quantities! Is it such a big deal? Le admits that scientists and
mainstream media discuss MSG concerns as uninformed public hysteria.
The
first part of the book is very witty when we follow the author travelling to
many remote parts of the globe in search of novel foods and read about pleasing
adventures. After the first few chapters, the narrative loses focus and
degenerates to the level of a dietary and health handbook. This book is not a
record of the varied culinary stages through which human societies reached
where they are today, but rather on what they should eat for better health. It impels
the readers to follow sustainable farming practices that do not snatch food
away from the plates of future generations.
The
book is recommended.
Rating:
3 Star